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Heading To The Hunter

By Alex Russell on June 27, 2012 in Food

Photo: Janelle Lugge

How many of you have ever been to a wine region? And how many of you have been to a wine region more than once? I bet it’s not all that many.

If you’re reading this, it probably means that you’re at least vaguely interested in wine. That’s great, but most of you probably just drink it with friends, in bars, restaurants or at home. Why would you bother taking a trip when you have to drive for about two hours and driving is largely incompatible with enjoying wine?

Well, you don’t always have to, as lots of tastings happen in Sydney all the time. Sign up to mailing lists from some of the out-of-town wineries and they’ll let you know when they’re on.

That said, it’s still worth making the trip up to the Hunter at some stage, and if you do, below are some things to keep in mind.

The Image Problem
The Hunter Valley has had a bit of an image problem over the years. Many of the bigger red styles, particularly the Shirazes, usually needed a bit (or a lot) of aging before they were really enjoyable and most people don’t have the time, the cellar space or the patience to wait. Instead, consumers prefer the more fruit-forward Shirazes from the Barossa and McLaren Vale.

The whites are mostly Semillon and Chardonnay in the Hunter, two varietals that were fashionable for a while but dropped out of favour when Kiwi Sauv Blanc really made it big. Many people have in mind the older, aged styles of Semillon, which can develop toasty, marmalade-style characteristics – not everyone’s favourite flavours. But it’s not always the case these days. There are a lot of producers out there doing some really interesting things and trying to change this image. Different grapes, different styles, different techniques – you name it.

Wines To Look Out For
The big names (like Tyrrell’s, Brokenwood, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant) have been producing awesome stuff for years. Some of them also make wine with fruit sourced from outside the Hunter, so there’s really something for everyone at these cellar doors. Be sure to try the Tyrrell’s Bin range (47 and 1 are personal favourites) and just about the whole Brokenwood portfolio.

There are also some other wines that you don’t see around so much, not in many bottle shops at least. Andrew Thomas (Thomas Wines) is doing some of the best crisp, fresh Semillon you will ever taste. His wines are my go-to match for prawns. Margan Estate is worth trying too, and just about everyone who goes to the Hunter brings something back from David Hook. Don’t forget to check out the Small Winemaker Centre too.

Tours And Travel
Why make your own list? There are people out there who will pick you up from Sydney, take you to popular cellar doors (and tailor the trip to go to particular wineries if you like), teach you about the wine and drop you home. Sure, it’ll cost a little bit, but it takes the driving problem out of the equation. Plus the tour guides know the locals and will sometimes be able to take you behind the scenes in certain wineries.

If you’re just there to get on the piss, that’s fine. There are lots of places that will be happy enough to see you, but try to keep it classy if at all possible. If you really want to appreciate the wines, pace yourself, take in all of the scenery, try the cheeses and other produce and stay up there for the weekend. You can check out winecountry.com.au for more info about trips to the Hunter.