A Date With d’Arenberg

By Alex Russell on January 27, 2016 in Food

d’Arenberg’s 1998 Footbolt Shiraz was the wine that got me into wine. It was the first time I could pick out flavours in a wine, rather than just drinking for the fun of drinking.

That experience started something. I sold wine for ten years, have been writing about it for eight years, and even did a PhD on the stuff. This is why d’Arenberg holds a special place in my heart.

d’Arry and Chester run the show. They’re based in McLaren Vale, a region mostly famous for Shiraz and Grenache, and they do those very well. But they also do a lot of other styles. Chances are that there will be something in their portfolio for anyone and everyone.

Most of us have blown a lot of cash over December and are looking for something gluggable at a reasonable price. The ‘Stump Jump’ range has a few summery white styles that would fit the bill, including a Riesling and Sauv Blanc, for around $11 (and sometimes cheaper). There are a few reds in there too.

Take a small step up in price and you’re looking at the ‘Dry Dam’ Riesling (an absolute bargain at $18), or perhaps the ‘Hermit Crab’ Viognier Marsanne ($15ish). The latter is a really interesting wine and an easy match with spicy food. The ‘Money Spider’ Roussanne ($20) is also worth a look if you’re after something different.

In the reds, the Footbolt Shiraz ($18) is very drinkable most years. I’d also recommend d’Arry’s Original Shiraz Grenache ($18).

You might have noticed that the names are a little quirky – all have a story. Footbolt was a horse that was sold to purchase the winery, for instance.

Are you a Pinot fan? The ‘Feral Fox’ Pinot Noir ($30) is a really interesting drop that often has that lovely funky element to it. The ‘Lucky Lizard’ Chardonnay ($25) is its stable mate and is also great value.

One of d’Arenberg’s most famous drops is the ‘Laughing Magpie’ Shiraz Viognier ($29), named so because one of Chester’s young kids couldn’t say kookaburra. Put some in your cellar. In the same ‘Artisan’ range, you’ll find personal favourites like the ‘Derelict Vineyard’ Grenache ($29) and the more elegant, and perennially awarded, ‘Galvo Garage’ Cabernet Blend ($29).

d’Arenberg’s ‘Icon’ wines are the ‘Dead Arm’ Shiraz, ‘Coppermine Road’ Cabernet Sauvignon and ‘Ironstone Pressings’ GSM (all $65), all of which have a presence in my cellar, particularly the ‘Dead Arm’.

They also make some great dessert wines (including the ‘Noble Botryotinia Fuckeliana’ SSB) and their fortified wines are brilliant. There are also some single vineyard wines around.

d’Arenberg’s wine club is called ‘Cenosilicaphobia’, which mean ‘the fear of an empty glass’. Join up. And if you’re in McLaren Vale, give yourself a few hours to do the degustation at their restaurant. It is a delightful experience, with sweeping views and phenomenal food matched with their awesome wines. Until then, mix up a dozen on their website, www.darenberg.com.au, and try them out.