Moss Wood Wines

By Alex Russell on July 13, 2011 in Food

The first vines went into the Moss Wood vineyard in 1969 and the first vintage was 1973 – around the same time Margaret River was born. Over the years, as demand has increased, the team has had to source fruit from more vineyards to make new wines to meet demand.

The original wines all come from the Moss Wood vineyard – originally Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir (a bit unusual for Margaret River), followed by Semillon and Chardonnay. The next step was the Ribbon Vale vineyard, which was purchased in 2000, adding more (and different) Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc to the mix, plus a bit more Semillon and even some Sauvignon Blanc.

They also make a few wines from other vineyards, including a Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir.

Their most famous wine is the Cabernet Sauvignon, which generally retails for about $120 these days and is now in the ‘exceptional’ tier of the current Langton’s Classification of Australian Wines, alongside big names like Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill of Grace, Torbreck Runrig, Penfolds 707, Leeuwine Estate Art Series Chardonnay – you get the idea.

So how are the wines? Well, I’ve tasted a few of them recently as a guest at a dinner for the release of the latest vintage of the Cabernet (2008) – it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it!

2009 Chardonnay

While this is generally a pretty big, oaky, buttery number, it seems they’ve been scaling it back a little bit over the years. It still undergoes partial malolactic fermentation (which gives it the buttery taste) and the 2009 is a particularly good vintage, with cellar estimates upwards of 15-20 years. It’s one of my favourite Chardonnays and at around $60 it’s not cheap, but it’s worth it. Anyone interested in seeing why there’s a bit of fuss about Chardonnay should try this wine.

2008 Margaret River Pinot Noir

Only a few producers make Pinot Noir in Margaret River, since Cabernet is all the rage here. I tasted this side-by-side with the 2008 Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir and this was my favourite by a long shot. The Mornington is much more elegant, even a bit ethereal, which will suit some people. For me, I love the raw power and structure of the Margaret River Pinot. Perhaps a bit of a fruit bomb compared to the Mornington, but it has length and style and I want to drink a bottle right now. It’ll cost you $60ish.

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

At about $90 a bottle, the price tag will rule some of you out of the market here, but there are great offerings in the Ribbon Vale Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend and the Amy’s (also Moss Wood owned) Cab blend if cost is an issue. Still, if you’re offered a chance to try this Cab Sav, take it. I’ve tasted many vintages of this and often find a little something in the wine that needs a bit of time to settle down and balance out, which is usually due to challenges from the vintage. But this is without doubt the most well balanced Moss Wood Cabernet I have ever tasted. Initially it’s a little quiet when you open it up, but give it 15 minutes in the glass and you’ll have a sensational example of what Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon is all about. Buy lots – some to drink now, some to cellar. But get in quick, because once word gets out, this won’t be around for long.