Powerfully Subtle: Good One, Bondi

By Siriol Dafydd on July 8, 2018 in Food

These guys really know what they’re doing, by Andrew McIntosh.

The Bondi restaurant market is a tough one. With the locals’ insatiable demand for brunch and plenty of already existing establishments to match, it’s hard to know whether to give the people what they want (eggs, avo, halloumi and more eggs, please) or buck the trend and offer something alternative.
Good One has miraculously found a comfortable sweet spot slap bang in the middle of both. Situated just off the corner of Warners and Wairoa Avenues, it neighbours Camilla Boutique and Harry’s Espresso Bar – very accessible, very Bondi.
The vibe is relaxed and just ever so slightly beachy with soft cushions and blue, teal and grey decor. The space isn’t huge but it isn’t cramped either and there are tables outside if you fancy some fresh air.
Good One offers a range of toasts, as well as a very diverse all-day menu. It has pretty much everything a Bondi resident could want: bircher muesli, granola, hotcakes, all kinds of eggs or a breakfast roll for those pesky hangovers. They also offer smoked fish, sweet potato and spicy sausage, and all sorts of other mouth-watering dishes you probably wouldn’t have a clue how to make at home.
I went for the gluten-free potato gnocchi, which came with mushrooms, truffle ricotta, almonds, parmesan and a poached egg (seriously, eggs are a genuine necessity in Bondi). Beautifully presented and flavoursome, it was filling but not heavy. The sauce was creamy and somehow simultaneously rich and light, and I surmised that Fred, their Argentinian chef, may be an actual God.
My plus-one opted for the folded eggs, which consisted of eggs (funnily enough), capers, chilli, sourdough and bonito – the fish of the day – which was smoked in-house. This dish was also beautifully presented and the flavours both powerful and subtle at once.
I should probably note at this point that this was actually my second lunch of the day. Our booking was at 3pm and I was absolutely ravenous by midday so I had an early lunch to keep my hanger at bay (the struggle is indeed real). So you’d probably be thinking that dessert would be off the table for me. Unfortunately for my waistline however, the plethora of cakes and treats on offer were too tempting for my greedy guts to refuse. Unable to resist anything chocolate from an alarmingly early age, I chose the chocolate and pistachio brownie, while my companion selected the orange and date scone, which was baked in-house. Both were absolutely delicious. I would never have thought to put dates and orange together, much less in a scone, but the result was divine.
Like any decent establishment in the Eastern Suburbs these days, Good One caters for all sorts of dietary requirements with suitable options for paleo, vegan and gluten-free diets, including the irresistible selection of cakes.
For coffee snobs, I mean enthusiasts, they use New Zealand roasters, Allpress Espresso. For me, coffee is pretty much coffee, but I was reliably told by my somewhat ‘particular’ companion that Allpress is up there with the best (she actually got into a lengthy and highly animated conversation with one of the owners about their coffee supplier while I just nodded and smiled).
All in all, Good One is an exceptional addition to an already fabulously rich tapestry of restaurants and coffee shops in Bondi. It’s in a great location with fun staff and a diverse menu full of wonderfully presented food for a variety of diets. And to top it all off, the coffee is bloody good too!

Good One
www.goodonebondi.com.au
Address 132 Warners Avenue, Bondi Beach
Facebook Good One Bondi Beach
Instagram @GoodOneBondi
Phone 9130 7787
Open 7 days: 6.30am-4.00pm
Prices Toast Menu: $8-14; All-Day Menu: $12-25
Cards Accepted Visa and
MasterCard
Licensed Not yet, watch this space