Café de France – A Touch of Normandy, In Coogee

By Dining Dave on April 14, 2015 in Food

French food is not everyone’s cup of cognac. Some see it as a bit pretentious, compared to Mexican or Italian cuisine for example, and it can be a bit heavy with all its creams and cheeses. But passion and a neighbourhood approach can make this world cuisine far more palatable, and that is exactly what Café de France is doing in Coogee.

Located on quiet Havelock Avenue, just off bustling Arden Street, Café de France is the creation of Rafaele (Raf) Yon, a French-expat who previously owned and operated Le Petit Café (also in Coogee), before selling it in order to open up this larger establishment last July. Describing it as “unpretentious”, “not fancy” and “not a bistro”, Raf isn’t sitting back; she’s right there on the floor serving tables, which, to me, means a lot in a small café.

Though known mainly as a delicious breakfast and lunch venue, my companions and I arrived on a Friday night for dinner, which is offered from Thursday to Sunday. Unusually, the single room is divided down the middle by the beverage station, which allows for a long, wooden communal table on one side and several smaller tables on the other. The walls are made of white Masonite pegboard that allows for multiple easily changeable hangings and French paintings.

Hailing from the Normandy region of France, Raf has based the menu on the traditional cuisine of the region. We began with a bottle of incredibly smooth Cotes de Provence rosé that gracefully complemented the three entrees: a fig and goat cheese plate dressed in balsamic vinegar; Parma prosciutto with snow peas and celeriac salad; and garlic prawns with green apple and cucumber sauce. We were incredibly impressed by all three entrees, in terms of both taste and presentation.

Moving on to the mains with great anticipation, Raf brought us out three massive creations: beef eye fillet with béarnaise sauce, watercress and fries; a Normandy veal cutlet with mushrooms, cream and calvados (an apple brandy from Normandy); and homemade gnocchi with prawns, zucchini and seafood bisque. The beef fillet melted after the first bite and the béarnaise sauce was the perfect complement, while the veal on the bone was a tender feast and the soft fluffy texture of the gnocchi married delightfully with the three seared prawns that accompanied it.

For dessert, we tried everything: luscious chocolate mousse; coffee ice cream drizzled with chocolate sauce; and crème brûlée. Again, the presentation was on point and the flavours were a delight.

Given that most of us can’t get to Rouen or Caen on a whim, we may have the next best thing just off the beach.

Café de France

Address | 19 Havelock Avenue, Coogee
Phone | (02) 9664 4005
Email | rafaele.yon@gmail.com
Open | Mon-Wed 7am-4pm; Thur-Fri 7am-4pm, 6pm-10pm; Sat-Sun 7:30am-10pm
Prices | Breakfast $6-22; Lunch $13-25; Dinner $18-$34
Seats | 35
Cards | All major cards
Licensed | Yes