December Frother – Derek Recio

By Dan Hutton on December 6, 2011 in People

This month, Derek Recio – the mad frothing dirt filther from Tamarama – answers a few quickies for The Beast…

Name: Derek Recio

Age: 34

Local break: Tama

Board shaper/dimensions: Mike Psillakis. I’ve gone down to riding 5’11”s and 5’9”s these days – heaps more fun!

You’ve been surfing since you were a grom; where was your local spot growing up?
Tama and Maccas seemed to be pumping every day when I was younger. That’s certainly not the case now!

Do you surf at Tama as much these days?
I find myself doing missions down the coast these days to get uncrowded waves. It’s better for my mental state. I also sneak in surfs on the Northern Beaches with clients from work.

You work within the surf industry; does that keep you motivated to get out there?
Yeah, working at Tracks and Waves keeps my froth on for sure. I love being involved in the best surf mags in the country. And Frothers keeps my daily froth on too!

Do your mates get jealous about your sweet job?
My clients are very generous to me and I’m sure there’s jealousy. My mates are always fishing through my car for product and mags. I try to share the love.

Do you travel far in search of waves? Where is your all time favourite surf spot?
I had the best surf of my life in the Mentawais – Lance’s Left. You know those days where you pick off the medium ones that are hitting the reef perfectly and no one else is onto it. I got non-stop perfect waves for two hours straight. Yew!

When you are not in the water, what else keeps you busy?
I love mountain biking rad trails as hard and fast as I can on my new Trek Remedy 9. It’s a beast.

What do you prefer, dirt filthing or frothing?
It’s always offshore on the trail bra. Ha, unless it’s wet. Then it’s shit. About five of the boys have converted over to dirt filthing, which is pretty classic but you cant replace a good long session on the water with a few of your mates.

Any last words?
The best blokes I know are mad frothers, don’t take themselves too seriously and have stayed young. Good way to live I reckon!